Shading
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For the discussion of topics related to the conservation, cultivation, propagation, exhibition & science of cacti & other succulents only.
Please respect all forum members opinions and if you can't make a civil reply, don't reply!
- ChrisR
- BCSS Member
- Posts: 2054
- https://www.behance.net/kuchnie-warszawa
- Joined: 11 Jan 2007
- Branch: SHEFFIELD
- Country: England
- Role within the BCSS: Member
- Location: Sheffield, UK
Shading
I normally use Bayer Coolglass for my greenhouse shading but as my local GC had none this year I bought what they had, "Growing Success" Greenhouse Shading. Never used it before but it went on well, much the same as Coolglass and the box says it turns clear in rain to maintain light levels which Coolglass doesn't do. But I just returned after 3 weeks away to find at least 50% has washed off in the rain - some use! So now I have to find some Coolglass and do it all over again.
Chris Rodgerson- Sheffield UK BCSS 27098
See www.conophytum.com for ca.4000 photos and growing info on Conophytum, Crassula & Adromischus.
See www.conophytum.com for ca.4000 photos and growing info on Conophytum, Crassula & Adromischus.
- iann
- BCSS Member
- Posts: 14565
- Joined: 11 Jan 2007
- Branch: MACCLESFIELD & EAST CHESHIRE
- Country: UK
- Role within the BCSS: Member
Re: Shading
So it does go clear when it rains Unfortunately never goes back white again
Cheshire, UK
- Apicra
- BCSS Member
- Posts: 1407
- Joined: 11 Jan 2007
- Branch: HARROW
- Country: UK
- Role within the BCSS: Branch Chair
- Location: London, UK
- Contact:
Re: Shading
I too could not find Coolglass shading powder (Aluminium oxide) for sale this year, so bought Vitax Summer Cloud liquid greenhouse shading instead. It did not wash off from the inside of the roof!
It also has not washed off from the outside of an Alton greenhouse. However, I found it difficult to use in small quantities. There is an oily fluid on top of the white liquid which does not stay mixed in suspension for long. So if you tip up the bottle, all you tip out is this and not the white shading at the bottom. This product is probably designed to be sprayed on, using a whole bottle at one time, whereas I wanted to paint it on when needed. Repeatedly dipping something like a spoon in, can extract small quantities.
Best wishes,
Derek Tribble
It also has not washed off from the outside of an Alton greenhouse. However, I found it difficult to use in small quantities. There is an oily fluid on top of the white liquid which does not stay mixed in suspension for long. So if you tip up the bottle, all you tip out is this and not the white shading at the bottom. This product is probably designed to be sprayed on, using a whole bottle at one time, whereas I wanted to paint it on when needed. Repeatedly dipping something like a spoon in, can extract small quantities.
Best wishes,
Derek Tribble
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- BCSS Member
- Posts: 4317
- Joined: 20 Sep 2007
- Branch: LEA VALLEY
- Country: Uk
Re: Shading
I have to say I have never shaded.
Re: Shading
You don't grow conophytums Mike.
Re: Shading
Nor Haworthia, I simply put 50% shade cloth on the outside of the roof/
Bill
Bill
_______________________________________________________________________________
Haworthiad Editor
Mainly Haworthia and Gasteria, a few other South African succulents and the odd spiky thing.
Haworthiad Editor
Mainly Haworthia and Gasteria, a few other South African succulents and the odd spiky thing.
Re: Shading
Bayer Coolglass works much better than any other but they seem to have stopped making it. It should be about £5 for four sachets and I fell for a ebay seller selling it at £5 a sachet and showing a photo of a full box instead. I found a shop selling old stock last year and bought three boxes, went back again recently and bought their last three boxes, they were produced six years ago! Best place to look is for old stock at a garden centre or pay an excessive £25 a box from ebay or Amazon.
Stuart
Stuart
- Paul D
- BCSS Trustee
- Posts: 1150
- Joined: 21 May 2009
- Branch: GRAMPIAN (N.E.Scotland)
- Country: UK
- Role within the BCSS: Trustee
- Location: Collieston, Aberdeenshire
- Contact:
Re: Shading
Thinking outside the box, you can buy bulk quantities of metal oxide powders from lapidary suppliers, used as the final stage in polishing stones in a rock tumbler. I've not tried it myself but I've got some in the shed somewhere- will try it and report back.
Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
Paul in North-east Scotland (Grampian Branch BCSS)
National Collection Rebutia, Aylostera & Weingartia (inc. Sulcorebutia). Also growing a mixture including Ferocactus, Gymnocalycium, Lobivia, Mammillaria, Lithops, Gasteria, Haworthia.
http://www.rebutia.org.uk
National Collection Rebutia, Aylostera & Weingartia (inc. Sulcorebutia). Also growing a mixture including Ferocactus, Gymnocalycium, Lobivia, Mammillaria, Lithops, Gasteria, Haworthia.
http://www.rebutia.org.uk
Re: Shading
I found this Coolglass at "old" prices - ish - no mention of not being in stock but I wouldn't be sure -
https://www.rodbers.com/Shop/p/coolglas ... se-shading
There was a thread on thgis topic last year, I recall. After that I found some last packets of Coolglass at my local hardware shop which will keep me going another year now.
Coolglass is 95% Titanium oxide, but the binder is not stated. Does anyone know what the added ingredient is?
I guess when my Coolglass is used up I will try shading with a titanium oxide/water mix, or old-fashioned whitewash using hydrated lime (both these available very cheaply on ebay). Re-applying a coat if it washes off too soon isn't an issue for me as I have easy access to the glass panes.
https://www.rodbers.com/Shop/p/coolglas ... se-shading
There was a thread on thgis topic last year, I recall. After that I found some last packets of Coolglass at my local hardware shop which will keep me going another year now.
Coolglass is 95% Titanium oxide, but the binder is not stated. Does anyone know what the added ingredient is?
I guess when my Coolglass is used up I will try shading with a titanium oxide/water mix, or old-fashioned whitewash using hydrated lime (both these available very cheaply on ebay). Re-applying a coat if it washes off too soon isn't an issue for me as I have easy access to the glass panes.
- DaveW
- BCSS Member
- Posts: 8164
- Joined: 08 Jul 2007
- Branch: NOTTINGHAM
- Country: UK
- Role within the BCSS: Branch President
- Location: Nottingham
Re: Shading
In the days before proprietary products were sold for greenhouse shading the old gardeners just used to use whitewash:-
https://www.hunker.com/13424244/how-to- ... -whitewash
Looks as if he is actually using it for a cactus house:-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WYGVDcI_ZUw
https://www.hunker.com/13424244/how-to- ... -whitewash
Looks as if he is actually using it for a cactus house:-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WYGVDcI_ZUw
Nottingham Branch BCSS. Joined the then NCSS in 1961, Membership number 11944. Cactus only collection.