Cultivation snippets wanted for CactusWorld

[el48tel]

We do something similar to this but bought those clear plastic salad or bakery containers that supermarkets use. They let more light in and the lid is hinged.

Microwaveable containers are better imho, because the compost can be placed in the container, then it can be microwaved for (say) 3 minutes, to ensure compost, container and lid are sterilised. Plus the lid seals tightly.
Other plastics may melt if microwaved with damp compost. A slightly translucent lid is fine.
I generally use slightly smaller puchased rectangular containers, of 200-250ml, they are ideal for about 50 seeds.

You can microwave in another container. The lids seal very well, as well as those other containers. These are new food grade containers in sealed packs. We prepare virtually all our food from scratch, hence having to buy containers. As an experiment we have not sterilised all our compost to see if there is any difference.

The results of your comparison of microwave sterilisation of compost with non-sterilisation will be interesting. You will publish your results won't you.

[Chez2]

I will report back. Give me a nudge if I forget. I grew a few lithops from seed as a child and never took the care I have read about on here. I never lost any, they lived for years. Some used to grow roots so I would take them off the parent plant and pop them into sandy soil.

[el48tel]

I will report back. Give me a nudge if I forget. I grew a few lithops from seed as a child and never took the care I have read about on here. I never lost any, they lived for years. Some used to grow roots so I would take them off the parent plant and pop them into sandy soil.

A thought --- been to a few branch meetings where this question was asked (and answered in different ways, but won't spoil your testing by pre-empting) .... but the main comment was that it had not been carried out by the tester under what could be considered as "scientific" conditions. So if you do do the testing, and do get some results, it might be worth offering your findings to "CactusWorld". (unless by then it has had a name change!)

[Tina]

BACK ON TOPIC,
Plant labels a useful trick is to have a second record of the number in pencil at the base of the label so if it breaks due to clumsiness or fragility due old age of the label, you can check thru your records and redo the label. I always have pencils in the greenhouses never pens, its just easier.
Its also useful to have a ruler as I'm no use at guestimating size of plants or pots
I think this was advice from David kirkbright

[aloedanielo]

Use tweezers, a small paint brush or pressurised air to remove dust and debris from your plants.
Gently blow off any water droplets that fall on your succulents leaves (before they mark them).

Farina is the dusty, waxy coating on a succulents leaves. Don't touch it or even brush past it as once gone it won't grow back! Not only is the farina aesthetically beautiful but it also acts as a sun cream for the plants. Without it they are more susceptible to scorching. Handle these plants like a wine glass, gently holding the base of the trunk.

When potting up a particularly spiky cactus, find a pot the same size as it's existing pot and place in the centre of the pot you are going to upsize too. Fill around with soil and then remove the inner pot to leave a perfect hole to simply slot your cactus into.

[DavidI]

I now always take a photo of new plants with the label clearly showing, as I have had several instances where I've picked up a plant that I haven't looked at for some time to check it's name, only to find the ink has disappeared and my memory has forgotten what it was called!

[Al Laius]

Thank you very much to all contributors to this thread. As many of these tips and hints as possible will be published in future editions of CactusWorld.

Please keep them coming.

Cheers
Al

[Peter]

On the subject of plant labels, they have two sides so I write the plant name on both. Very handy in case of fading or if the label is caught and snaps.
I always use a pencil as in my experience it lasts longer than ink. It can also be erased and the label reused.

[Cactusgirl]

I only water my Dioscorea Elephantipes when they are growing leaves

[Herts Mike]

To root thin stemmed Ceropegias cut just below a node then put into cold boiled water in a Marmite jar. Change the water every week or so until it roots.