Cultivation snippets wanted for CactusWorld

[Peter]

I always use small stones/pebbles at the bottom of pots. This subject has been discussed on this forum previously and there are differing thoughts. My point of view however, is that removing the pebbles when repotting loosens the roots, allowing them to easily 'grab' the new compost. The alternative - a hard as a brick rootball - presents problems with delayed root growth or root damage, and I would guess that many of us will have seen a plant with a hard rootball sitting in compost, static with no root spread. Removing the pebbles is so simple.

[conolady]

I put a piece of newspaper or shade net if I have some over the drainage holes, then put about half an inch of medium or large gravel over that. I find that it aids drainage very well and doesn't fall through the pot.

[Herts Mike]

Talking of small flies here's a green tip to deal with them.

Get a carnivorous plant ( mine is Drosera binata) and move it where you need it, usually near pots of seedlings and it will hoover up all the flies. It doesn't need reptting, just stands in rainwater all the time.

[GregoryBulmer]

To stop the tips of Leuchtenbergia principis dying off water it twice as often as the rest of your collection. They don't like being dry for long periods of time

[Tina]

Give some Water to cleistocactus & gymnocalycium over the winter, maybe not the choicer ones like friedrichii or any newly acquired or recently repotted.

[KarlR]

I always use small stones/pebbles at the bottom of pots. This subject has been discussed on this forum previously and there are differing thoughts. My point of view however, is that removing the pebbles when repotting loosens the roots, allowing them to easily 'grab' the new compost. The alternative - a hard as a brick rootball - presents problems with delayed root growth or root damage, and I would guess that many of us will have seen a plant with a hard rootball sitting in compost, static with no root spread. Removing the pebbles is so simple.

I know the use of peat in the soil is a contentious subject, so I won't discuss the whole organic/inorganic/peat debate. However, I have found that it's only composts containing a large amount of peat that suffer these kind of problems. Since moving away from peat years ago I've never had issues with too compacted soil.

Also, in terms of tips, if the rootball really is hard as brick I would break it apart to remove all the old dead roots and tired old soil. Give the plant a good rest afterwards to recuperate, then treat it as all the other plants.

[KarlR]

To stop the tips of Leuchtenbergia principis dying off water it twice as often as the rest of your collection. They don't like being dry for long periods of time

My Leuchtenbergias stand in water almost all summer. I'll fill their trays with water (about two centimetres) and then refill as necessary. They're only dry on their feet for any time if I forget about them or go on holiday.

[Al Laius]

Thank you all very much for your tips and hints.

Now that we have covered quite a few general points, have you got any that are more genus or species related. We've already had some about Leuchtenbergia and Cleistocactus and seeds of caudiciform plants. Would be grateful for more like this.

Please keep 'em coming.

many thanks
Al

[Mike P]

To get Tunilla to flower well keep them in good light, cold and dry over winter and hold off watering until April.

[Herts Mike]

Don't repot Stapeliads until they have started growing in spring.