Growing Conos from seed

[Stuart Estell]

How difficult are Conophytum from seed? I'd say I'm moderately confident with raising not-too-difficult cacti from seed, but am not really aware of what differences in approach I would neeed to take with Mesembs (e.g. temperatures, time of year to sow etc. - although I do have growlights indoors).

What I've read so far about getting hold of seed suggests that joining the Mesemb Study Group is the best way to go about it. Are there any other sources to be recommended? And what species are good for a cono-seed-raising beginner?

[BrianMc]

I find Conophytums are dead easy from seed, especially if you get it from the MSG seed list. The seed on there is superb, comes from good sources and for me has always germinated well.Each year there is an excellent range of mesembs available. The only other source I would recommend is Mesa garden, which has a phenomenal list of mesemb (including conos) seed. The BCSS sometimes has conos on it's list, but they usually number very few.

In general conos will germinate between 3 and 7 days after sowing. I sow mine in 2" pots in a standard seed propagator, usually from February - April.on a window ledge or under the bench in the greenhouse with no supplementary lighting ( No sledgehammer required for these walnuts;)) One difference between mesembs and cacti is that mesembs don't really appreciate the 'baggie' method of seed sowing. I check pots for germination every day and one day after germination has started I take the pot out of the propagator to allow good air circulation. The pots are mist sprayed every day to prevent drying out. Usually by mid summer the seedlings are ready for their first 'semi' rest, when I allow the soil medium to dry out slightly between waterings. This appears to consolidate growth and prevents the seedlings from stacking leaves.Watering is usually picked up again in late August (Scotland) but the seedlings are never allowed to become too bloated over winter, when they are mist sprayed during sunny spells. Don't be in too much of a rush to prick seedlings out. If they grow well leave them in their sowing pot until they are in danger of swamping each other out.I would advise pricking out into small trays as the plants seem to prefer this to small pots at this stage.

As far as suggestions for species, thats up to you. Although after care may be different with the species,some being tricky and some not, the seed seems to act pretty much all the same which ever camp the adults fall into. I would say try a few from each section within Conophytum. You have the Dumpling, so thats an excellent reference and place to start.

If I was to be pushed to name names I don't think you could go far wrong if you try some of the Ophthalmophyllums, such as C.praesectum.
Add to that C.pellucidum ssp.pellucidum or ssp.cupreatum. C.obcordellum , C.minimum, C.ectypum,C.meyeri, C.wettsteinii, C.taylorianum....but where do you stop? The ones mentioned will give you a good range and can't be considered difficult.

Hope this helps.

Best of Luck,
Brian

[Stuart Estell]

Thanks for that Brian, most helpful

[Diane]

Hi, Stuart. Everything Brian wrote is bang on the nail, these plants don't need heat to germinate, they like cool night temps. Terry Smale sows his in January, I believe, and I try to do mine then too. they don't want high humidity when they come up, as Brian says. You do need patience, though, as they stay so small for the first year or two, and they need to be shaded as well. Growing from seed is a wonderful way to start a colletion as you will get different forms of each species, especially C. pellucidum, which is quite an easy one to start with, and there are many different subspp. from different locations - very rewarding to grow!

Good luck!

[Stuart Estell]

Thanks Diane, my Arios have taught me patience so I don't mind the idea of baby Conos doing very little for a while

One question though - if I was to join the MSG, if you say you aim to sow in January, when does the MSG publish its seed list?

[iann]

MSG seedlist comes out in January, usually towards the end of January.

I sow mesemb seeds under plastic just like cactus, but keep them there for weeks not months. The high humidity gets the germination done efficiently, it also helps the little spheroids to grow fast at the cotyledon stage. I also grow them in full sun after the first few months, even Conophytums although my experience is limited and some species might not like this. They really aren't hard, but they do need care because one day too hot, too dry, too wet, etc. and they will all be dead.

[Stuart Estell]

Thanks Ian.

[ChrisR]

Everything you've been told above, is good advice Stuart. As Diane says, for your first attempts, I'd also recommend you try a few Pellucida - but also Ophthalmophyllums. All species in those groups are easy and rewarding to grow and there are lots to choose from.

I use my regular potting mix to sow on. But I follow Steve Hammers example and zap it on full power for 10 minutes in the microwave first. Also like him, I use de-ionised water unilt the seedlings are a few months old. Damping off is their worst enemy at first and these two methods help to avoid it.

I've sown at all times of year, but late winter/early spring does seem to be best. As with Brian, I use individual 2" pots but like to put on a single layer of fine grit, then sow the seeds and wash them into it. It gives extra humidity and support and keeps down any moss which may grow. I just leave them on the bench without cover and put them underneath if it gets too bright. They can damp off if too wet for too long and you have to watch for Sciara fly. A single layer of newspaper will protect them from strong summer sun.


Chris R

[Kada]

are they ok to sow in hot weather? its coolER here now but still 30 degrees in the day. i just planted 100 (they are 4 years old though, but stored well) and i dont see much

should i have waited for cooler temps?

[ChrisR]

I think so Kada - that's just too hot for them. It may even prevent germination. What I'd do, is let the them go dry and wait for much cooler weather - then start them again. A high of 15-20 daytime, down to 8-10 at night, is about right.

Anyone else agree - or has he other options?


Chris