Lithops watering

[Liz M]

As I am a bit of a novice on Lithops, I thought I would check with everyone here first. I have a few Lithops and it seems to me I should start watering them about now. Some are still firm and have lost last year's growth, a few look a bit wrinkly and one or two don't appear to have made it through winter. I believe once last year's leaves have dried up and dropped off you can start watering, a little or a lot?

[eduart]

Hi Liz,

Keep in mind that Lithops do not need too much water. The watering schedule depends I think also on the climate. I water my Lithops based on their vegetation stages. Basically there are two main periods when I water them:

- just after the old leaves have been completely dried off and dropped, and

- during flowering time (this includes bud formation)

I start every time with a superficial watering (just to stimulate the regrowth of the fine roots) followed by another 1 - 2 deep waterings. Very young plants do not flower but still you can see the fissure between the two leaves becoming A BIT WIDER, this is the sign that you can give them a bit of water. Watering in between is rather an exception and I need a good reason for this. It works for me.

Pretty much that's it for an entire year.

Cheers,

Eduart

[Marise]

That sounds easy to follow, Eduart, but when do you stop the watering?

[Mal L]

I usually start watering round about mid-May depending on the weather, and if the drying up of the old leaves is well advanced. I give them my last watering as they flower, which for most of them is usually mid- to late-October.

[eduart]

Hi Marise,

You stop after 1 - 2 deep waterings. Try something like this: after the first superficial watering wait 3 - 4 days, water again thouroughly and wait another 2 - 3 weeks and here's the time for the second deep watering. And that's it until it's time again to give them some water - this could be 4 - 5 months later...

Cheers,

Eduart

[Peter B]

To anyone with a successful watering regime then stick to it even if it seems different from advice offered by others.

I never water before the beginning of June with mature plants but seedlings up to 2/3 years old (dependent on size and therefore ability to withstand drought) get sprayed from April if sunny up to June. Seedlings, once pricked out, go into margarine tubs and kept as close to one another as practicably possible and will stay there for a couple of growing seasons before being moved into individual pots. The beauty of this treatment is the fact the soil does not dry out as rapidly as in pots and the young seedlings can establish their roots without being in a confined space. I tend to spray only when watering these containers.

From there they are moved into 2" square pots which, by virtue of their volume, dry out very quickly, especially in warm weather, so they are watered much more regularly than Eduart suggests. The bigger the pot the less often they are watered and weather conditions play a major role in the decision to water or not. Lithops are used to drought conditions in habitat and show their ability to manage with only a few centimetres of rain annually, some receiving their water allowance mainly from regular fogs on the western coastal fringe but these are quite drenching at the time and followed by daily sunshine which quickly dries the topsoil. As a result they will, in the greenhouse, adapt to a 'dry' regime and will also keep a low profile in the soil. I find it nigh on impossible to get a few species to dry their previous year's leaves right back even if I don't water them till July or later so I tolerate the fact that they may have two sets of leaves growing together even though it may not be aesthetically correct.

Watering usually finishes at the end of September unless October is unusually warm and sunny except for L. optica and cv. rubra which flower at any time from November through to February so they get the occasional dribble if weather conditions demand it up to the end of October. These conditions work for me and I believe all growers of Lithops have to experiment a little to find what is right for them. However, based on the workable premise that you do not start watering as early as for cacti, you should be successful with the plants. My early experiences many, many moons ago, before I learnt of their particular requirements, was drastically disastrous because I treated them like cacti with total failure. They are very specific in their needs and I wish you well with your ventures, Liz, and you are close enough to visit if you wish.

Peter B Manchester Branch

[Marise]

Thanks for that everyone.
I, for one, feel rather clearer in my mind now as I've read all sorts of complicated watering routines before which only served to confuse.

[Liz M]

Thanks for all the useful advice. I think i'll go and water my Lithops now, this minute!

[iann]

Water away. Anything that hasn't shed its old leaves by now either isn't going to, has gone completely dormant, or is in serious trouble. Even if you water too early, it should be easy to burn off the old leaves in a greenhouse. Just don't persist in watering plants that are still clinging on to last year's food store. In most cases, Lithops that refuse to refresh at all have a problem and should be examined with a view to taking cuttings.

I water like a cactus, except less often, starting when the old leaves are gone (or a little before, but you didn't hear that from me!), and continuing until the flowers are well set (or around late September for early or non-flowerers). Drench the pot. Lithops have no roots in the top couple of inches anyway, and the large commonly grown species will easily send roots to the bottom of a four inch pot.

How often depends on the size of the pot and the size of the Lithops. A smallish plant in a large pot perhaps only 2-4 times a year as described. Smaller pots will need watering more often, and large clumps are also thirstier. There are different techniques, but they probably offer the most benefit in hotter climates and with some of the more difficult species. If they're disappearing beneath the top dressing, and assuming they haven't rotted, then they're thirsty. If they're bulging in all directions then don't water.

[Mike P]

I tend to wait untill the old leaves have turned to paper.
Most of mine have now completed this but I have a few which are still in the process. Last year it was early July before the last had finished absorbing the old leaves and were given any water.
I then water much in line with the advice below but always erring on the side of caution to try and keep the plants as flat to the compost as possible and preventing excessivly turgid growth.